Though valiant efforts are made, it sometimes seems as if New Orleans is slowly losing some of its authentic, old school charm as increasingly upscale commercial enterprises hollow out architectural gems and turn them into leisure palaces. Which just serves to highlight the character-rich, connected-to-its-roots charms of the Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery. The Warehouse District gem, currently celebrating its 10th anniversary, not only remains one of Crescent City’s most interesting and attractive places to stay, but keeps getting better.
Occupying a beautifully restored 1854 warehouse on historic Tchoupitoulas Street that originally served the Port of Orleans before becoming a chandlery supplying goods to ships, the boutique luxury hotel offers an elevated guest experience without ever forgetting where it came from. Every element, from the perfectly preserved architectural details to the carefully curated art program, works to forge a connection to the real New Orleans.
It helps that they only have to go downstairs to experience one of the city’s most laureled restaurants: Compère Lapin, helmed by James Beard Award-winning Best Chef South Nina Compton. And when venturing out, the hotel’s location proves strategically perfect—close enough to the French Quarter’s storied attractions and the city’s most celebrated dining and drinking venues, yet far enough removed from the crowds that can overwhelm the Quarter’s narrow streets.
Intimate, authentic, refreshingly unpretentious, the hotel’s industrial heritage adds depth and character. Nearly every guest room features expansive old-school windows that flood the spaces with Louisiana’s golden light, while in the older rooms exposed-brick walls and soaring ceilings create a striking atmosphere. The most largest and most desirable accommodations are the Artist Loft Suites, which feature hardwood floors, seating areas with leather sofas, and local creators’ gallery-style works curated by Where Y’Art.
The lobby is much more than a place to check in; it’s a combination art gallery, living room, library, boutique, breakfast spot and social hub all in one. The loft-like space equipped with various groups of comfortable sofas and chairs is welcoming any time of the day or night. You never know who you’ll meet over a cup of coffee or glass of bourbon. Rotating exhibitions and art installations showcase works that capture both the beauty and grit of life in New Orleans life, so there’s always something interesting to talk about.
And the lobby leads you in to Compère Lapin, which has become one of the city’s best and most lauded restaurants. Chef Compton’s recognition as Best Chef South represents just one accolade in an impressive collection that includes praise from Food & Wine, Esquire, and numerous other culinary authorities. Her appearance as a Top Chef runner-up introduced her talents to national audiences, but locals—and guests of Old No. 77—have long been aware of the great talent within their midst.
Compton’s signature style evokes her Caribbean upbringing, pairing it with with Louisiana-indigenous French and Italian cuisine. Her cookbook, Kwéyòl / Creole: Recipes, Stories, And Tings from a St. Lucian Chef’s Journey, is a masterpiece in its own right, featuring recipes that “tell the story of her thrilling culinary journey from St. Lucia to Jamaica, Miami, and New Orleans, and celebrate the diverse African heritage that threads these cuisines together.”
And each dish at Compère Lapin “tells a story of migration, adaptation, and innovation—themes that resonate deeply in a city built by waves of immigrants who brought their flavors and techniques to create something entirely new.” Standout dishes include Blackened Pig Ears with Smoked Aioli; Curried Goat with Sweet Potato Gnocchi and Cashews; and Gulf Fish with Spring Vegetable Broth and Pickled Mango. To celebrate the 10th anniversary Compton also created a “Greatest Hits” prix fixe menu that is a must-try. The restaurant was recently also named a James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Hospitality.
To says that Old No. 77 and Compère Lapin have helped make the Warehouse District one of the city’s coolest neighborhoods is no understatement. Perhaps more than any other, this neighborhood abounds in local energy, with the rhythm of a community that balances preservation with progress. Here converted industrial spaces house everything from cutting-edge galleries to intimate jazz clubs. It’s no wonder the hotel has received several awards, including recognition in the Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards and Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards.
We obviously recommend kicking off your stay with an evening at Compère Lapin. But when you’re ready to venture farther afield, in less than 20 minutes you can walk to one of the city’s best new restaurants, Beggars Banquet, a gorgeous eatery in the Lower Garden District. Presiding over a food-friendly corridor of Prytania Street, a mostly residential zone with shops and eateries dotting grand old homes, Beggars Banquet has a neighborhood vibe but attracts gourmands of all stripes. Just look for the martini-swilling alligator signage and you are there.
New Jersey native chef and New Orleans adoptee Mike DiIonno and his team have created a friendly, funky environment at Beggars Banquet, named in homage to the Rolling Stones. New Orleans Magazine has praised the restaurant for being “intimately familiar and comforting,” offering up Dilonno’s takes on old-school classics, the kind of retro dishes that have gotten lost in the race for culinary ingenuity, but with the chef’s own nuances garnered from a lifetime in the biz.
Don’t think New Orleans southern. This has a lot of East Coast going into the preparations. Try the duck leg confit and the scallops, pan seared with crab hash and yes, Old Bay Seasoning. Steak frites is a must. Crabby Benny is a popular brunch dish. Share the crispy Firecracker Calamari and Smoked Redfish Dip. Get a gorgeously crafted cocktail. Hell, get two or three. This is New Orleans after all.
