I’m sitting in the hot tub on the deck outside of my cabin at One&Only Moonlight Basin, breathing in the cold Montana night air while the snow falls around me in fast, fat flakes. My quads are a little sore from a morning of fat biking, but my body is relaxed after a truly excellent massage at the on-site spa. I’m in total recovery mode when I catch movement out of the corner of my eye.
A fluffy, curious fox has emerged three cabins down. He weaves under and around the decks, edging closer as I hold my breath. I’m amazed to finally see a fox close enough to catch the white of his whiskers, his red fur and the cabin’s Christmas lights glowing against the snow. Just as I’m thrilled by the encounter, he vanishes into the dark forest.
During my three-night stay at the newest One&Only (the first U.S. location of the swanky brand), this wasn’t the only time I’d feel a sense of surprise and delight. I felt it during my very first meal there, at Akira Back, the modern Japanese celebrity chef restaurant that might just be the best meal in the mountain west. (Seriously, I ate there twice, it was that good.)
I felt it during my first-ever ski lesson at Big Sky Resort, a quick 15-minute drive away—or a 10-minute ride in the resort’s private heated gondola—that left me feeling more excited for winter than I have in years. And I also felt it during an evening visit to Moonshack, a cozy cabin on the property that’s been converted into a rustic luxe whiskey bar, complete with a wood-burning stove and lively conversation with other guests.
One&Only has a well-earned reputation for being among the best hotel brands for service, amenities, and finishes, and their Moonlight Basin location is no exception. The 240-acre property is nestled in a quiet corner of Big Sky with 360-degree views of the Spanish Peaks, Lone Mountain, and Fan Mountain (pretty much anywhere on the property, you can enjoy some legit alpine landscape). The 73 rooms and 19 cabins all have giant windows to take in the views. And best of all, you can adventure as much—or as little—as you’d like.
Adventure Intel
One&Only Moonlight Basin is at a clutch spot close to Big Sky ski resort and all it has to offer, including 5,850 acres of skiable terrain, 320 named runs, and an average snowfall of 400 inches a year (and the town was recently named the top 2026 travel location by Expedia). But One&Only is located at enough of a distance—and on a big enough property—to feel like you’re in the wilderness.
Winter Sports
Winter is still the primary season in this part of Montana, and One&Only rises to the challenge with a full slate of snow sport offerings: I got to try the guided fat-biking (usually an hour and a half tour on on-property trails; I called it after 30 minutes and got zero judgement, only support, from my guide) and a ski lesson at Big Sky organized by One&Only.
The property has its own gear hub at the base of their gondola where you can rent or buy any and all ski or bike gear you might need. If you bring your own, their ski valet will store your skis and snowboards for you.
They also offer guided snowshoeing and Nordic skiing on the more than 15 miles of on-property trails, and stargazing at the on-site observatory, if you’re there on a clear night.
The heated gondola direct from One&Only to the Madison Base at Big Sky Resort makes accessing world-class skiing easy. And if you’re not into skiing but still want to get up in the mountain and see some spectacular views, the Kircliff observation deck on top of Lone Peak opens on December 20. The two-story, brand-new glass building delivers views of three states at 11,166 feet. The easiest way to access it is to request a ride to Mountain Village and hop on the Explorer Gondola. From there, you’ll take the Lone Peak Tram the rest of the way up—no skiing required.
Want to ski from One&Only? You’ll take the heated gondola to the Madison Base, then take the Madison 8 chairlift up. From there, you can ski down Fast Lane (a blue) to Mountain Village.
Summer Options
Come summer, One&Only switches its programming to suit the season. They’ll offer on-site hiking, mountain biking, paddle boarding, canoeing, and fly-fishing casting lessons. Off-site, they can arrange fly-fishing excursions (with Trout Stalkers) on the Madison River and can set you up with horseback riding or golf at Moonlight Basin’s Jack Nicklaus Signature course, which is a big get—like most golf courses in the area, it’s private.
Wildlife Spotting
Moonlight Basin sits within the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the largest nearly intact temperate-zone ecosystems on Earth. This means you’re in a prime spot for catching glimpses of Montana wildlife in its natural habitat; in addition to foxes, you might see moose, bighorn sheep, elk—and maybe even a grizzly bear.
Recovery
Lots of adventure demands lots of downtime: after working in health and fitness for a decade, my biggest fitness belief is that type-two fun demands type-A recovery. And One&Only excels at offering the best of both.
After spending a morning getting after it, you can head to the spa for a massage (ask for Julio), steam, and sauna, or hop in the adults-only lap pool for more training. The outdoor onsen (pictured above) sits next to a cold plunge tub if you want to level up your recovery with a hot-cold cycle. And if the altitude is proving tough to acclimate to (One&Only sits at around 7,000 feet), head to their relaxation room, where you can hook up to oxygen and take in the falling snow from floor-to-ceiling windows.
Choice Rooms and Service
During my visit I stayed in a one-bedroom cabin, which, at 968 square feet, is barely smaller than my house and about twice as luxe. There are also two-bedroom cabins, as well as standard rooms and suites available in the lodge. (If you want to go all-out, you can rent a private four- to six-bedroom home on the property; rates for those start at $9,900 a night).
The king-size bed was plush and, speaking from personal experience, an excellent place to take a nap and watch the snow fall. The heated bathroom floors make for cozy midnight trips to the Toto toilet (also heated, and with a built-in bidet), and the tub is big enough for two fully grown adults. My favorite cabin amenity is a tie between the two fireplaces (one facing the living area, one facing the bedroom) and the aforementioned private outdoor hot tub. The room is also equipped with anything you could possibly need during your stay—and if it’s not, your host is just a text message away.
One&Only Moonlight Basin uses the “host” system, where you get a two-person team dedicated to your every need, accessible via text almost 24/7. When your hosts aren’t available, your requests go to a general service line. I used the texting mostly for rides around the property when it was too snowy to walk and in-room dining orders, but it was clear that the system was there for just about any request you might have.
It’s a brand-new property, and some of the kinks are still being worked out—mostly around the higher-end amenities and communication between service members. This is expected at a property of this scale, and it’s more than made up for with a staff that goes above and beyond to make any and every inconvenience right. A well-traveled guest who was staying at the same time as me made the comment that he thought the service was “some of the best [he’d] ever experienced” and noted that more than anything, the team wants to make sure their guests are happy.
Eat and Drink
There are three restaurants on the property: Wildwood (where you can eat an included breakfast each morning; it’s also open for dinner), The Landing (open for dinner), and Akira Back (open for dinner). There are also two standalone bars: Dear Josephine, inspired by a local Prohibition moonshiner, and Moonshack, a whiskey and cigar cabin. You can also have in-room dining delivered all day—and yes, the food is just as good.
The food and beverage service at One&Only was one of the most impressive things about my visit. General manager Serge Ditesheim describes the restaurants as “aspiring world-class,” and I’d agree. Akira Back, one of 28 locations owned by chef and former pro snowboarder Akira Back, comes closest to that world-class mark, with friendly, laidback service and a yellowtail starter that is so good it’s almost impossible to believe you’re eating it in land-locked Montana. And I’m still thinking about the wagyu fried rice.
For dinner, Wildwood offers a prix fixe menu with three courses and some fun surprises in between. The breakfast spread includes a massive buffet with everything from plain bagels and chia seed pudding to roasted veggies and some of the most consistently delicious fruit I’ve had in a hotel. If you can’t find anything you want out of the 50-plus items on the buffet, you can also order from the menu; standouts include the pulled pork arepa and the fried chicken, some of the crispiest west of the Mississippi.
The Landing is located adjacent to the gondola, so it’s the most public-facing dining option; you’ll be eating among guests and Big Sky skiers alike. The menu is elevated mountain fare; go for the eggplant spread starter and chicken schnitzel main. All restaurants work to source as much as possible from local providers, and it shows in the quality and flavor across all three dining options.
The two bars offer two distinct experiences: For velvet seating and a copper bar, head to Dear Josephine; when you want to feel immersed in the Montana wilderness while you sip some top-tier whisky, head to the Moonshack. Both spots offer non-alcoholic options, including the usual Athletic Brewing NA beers, and bartenders are happy to mix a mocktail up for you, too.
When to Go
With its proximity to Big Sky, ski season is an (obviously) ideal time to visit Moonlight Basin—and I can attest that with a couple of feet of snow on the ground, the many fireplaces and outdoor twinkle lights really up the cozy factor. But honestly, as someone who loves the mountains in all seasons, go when you can—each season has its own appeal.
Shoulder seasons (spring and fall) will be quieter, which is a great time for a low-key getaway. If you want fewer crowds and don’t mind a little mud or wind, visit during a shoulder season. Summers in the high country are short but truly sweet, with daylight lasting until 9 p.m. and endless acres of adventure open to you.
How to Get There
Fly into the Bozeman airport, which has nonstop flights from Denver, LA, Chicago, Dallas, Atlanta, and more year-round, and even more flights seasonally. One&Only Moonlight Basin is about an hour and a half by car; they’ll pick you up, or you can rent a car or book a transport service like Big Sky Country Transport. The drive itself is pretty mellow; as someone used to 2-hour drives becoming 4-hour schleps across I-70 during Colorado’s peak season, I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of traffic.
Rates start at $1,800 a night; breakfast at Wildwood is included. Book here.
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