If you like Japanese whisky but haven’t yet heard of Kanosuke, you’re in for a treat. Their whiskies are every bit as good as high-end Suntory classics like Yamazaki and Hibiki, but they bring something new to the category. The distillery is located on Japan’s southernmost island of Kyushu, overlooking a beach on the East China Sea, which creates maritime notes akin to those found in whisky from the Scottish Isles. Though the label just entered the whisky business in 2017, Kanosuke is a fourth-generation family-owned distillery with 140 years of distillation experience from the making of Shochu, the island of Kyushu’s longtime specialty spirit. This deep history gives Kanosuke a subtle understanding of distillation and barrel aging that helps them to produce exceptionally nuanced whiskies.
The Ghost Series was established in 2013 by whisky expert Stefan Van Eycken as a way to showcase the quirky side of Japanese whisky, featuring whiskies from different distilleries throughout Japan. This is Van Eycken’s second collaboration with Kanosuke, but the first of its kind available in the U.S. He describes Kanosuke as “one of the most exciting and innovative distilleries in Japan.” As the first craft distillery in Japan to develop a core range of single malt, pot still, and blended whiskies, he describes the distillery’s evolution in just seven years of existence as, “nothing short of astonishing.” Van Eycken’s goal with this trio of whiskies is to “continue to surprise connoisseurs” with three unique spirits that take advantage of Kanosuke’s range of three different styles of whisky.
The Ghost Series 23a
The first in the series is a Kanosuke Hioki Pot Still Single Cask Whisky made of malted and unmalted barley that is aged in a new American white oak puncheon barrel. Only 200 bottles will be released globally. Van Eycken’s tasting notes single out elements like an aroma of caramel and custard puff pastry, a taste of toasted coconut and marshmallow with spicy notes of nutmeg, cloves, and white pepper. The high ABV of 64 percent (128 proof) makes this very punchy and versatile. It will stand up to the dilution of ice for sipping and cocktails or the addition of water more careful tasting. $249.99
The Ghost Series 23b
The second in the series is a Hioki Pot Still Single Cask Whisky made of malted and unmalted barley that is aged in a first-fill bourbon barrel—instead of the new oak puncheon of the “a” bottling. Like the “a” edition above, this is also limited to 200 bottles and bottled at 64 percent ABV. Van Eycken’s tasting notes include some particularly interesting articulations of flavor, including an aroma that combines both honey pound cake, porcini mushroom stock, and freshly washed shirts. On the palate, expect notes of Earl Grey-flavored scones, banana bread, and espresso milk. It finishes with crème brûlée slowly giving way to white pepper and citrus peel. $249.99
The Ghost Series 23c
With the series c, both of the “a” and “b” whiskies are married and matured in plum wine casks and bottled as single casks at 61 percent ABV. This expression has slightly more availability, with 570 bottles being released globally. Van Eycken’s tasting notes are again a masterclass in whisky descriptors, including an aroma of Turkish Delight and sour cherry pie, a taste of maple syrup toast, cherry coke, and molasses, and a finish of elderflower liqueur and candied citrus peel. $249.99
What Kansouke’s The Ghost Series Represents For Japanese Whisky
To get context for this release, I spoke to the whisky expert Noah Rothbaum, author of The Whiskey Bible. For him, this is more than an annual release; it’s a sign of the evolution and growth of the Japanese whisky industry.
“In roughly 15 years, we’ve gone from a handful of bottles of Japanese whisky in the whole category—Yamazaki, Hibiki, Nikka, and that was about it—to now having this incredible range of whiskies from distilleries across Japan,” says Rothbaum. This diversity of product also means different flavor profiles and unique blends like the Ghost Series—a perfect example of how the meteoric rise of Japanese whisky has opened up the door to different terroirs.
“It’s wonderful that Japanese Whisky has become so popular and established that now, not only can brands sell normal lines, but also interesting blends exclusively for restaurants and bars, and there are people who will seek those out,” says Rothbaum. This change in behavior of Americans seeking out ever rarer and more unique Japanese whiskies is a sign of changing times, he says, considering that for decades it was a tough sell in the U.S.
How To Get The Ghost
These expressions won’t be available online, but they will be available in select liquor stores in the U.S., potentially offered to longtime customers or through raffles. But the best way to taste this is in high-end cocktail bars throughout the country, such as Shinji’s Bar, Angel’s Share, and Bar Goto in New York, Kumiko in Chicago, and Wolf and Crane, Tokyo Noir, and Bar Iris in California, among others.
While not being able to horde a bottle for yourself may be frustrating for some, it’s actually a good thing for consumers and connoisseurs overall. Rothbaum points out that it’s far better to have “special blends people get to try,” instead of them simply “going into a trophy cabinet and gathering dust.” With so much demand and so little supply, these ghosts won’t be long for this world.
