“At Bushmills, tradition and innovation go hand in hand,” Alex Thomas tells Maxim. “With more than 400 years of heritage and experience, we have an unparalleled foundation of craft and consistency. At the same time, we see innovation as essential to keeping that legacy alive.”
And that four-century old Bushmills story is one about as turbulent as its Irish homeland. Launched in 1608 with a whiskey making license in the verdant meadows of County Antrim, Northern Ireland, Bushmills determinedly survived fits and starts. Through devastating fires, world wars, industry crashes, and countless rebirths, it all leads today to our wonderful Spirit Of the Week: Bushmills 26 Year Old Crystal Malt Irish Whiskey.
Beyond its globally recognized Bushmills Original expression, the label truly excels in its extra-aged options. Back in 2022 we fell in deep, hopeless Gaelic love with the latest in their Rare Casks collectors’ series: a 29 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey finished in Pedro Ximenez casks. Then this spring came ‘Secrets Of The River Bush,’ a 46 Year Old Bushmills that laid claim to being the oldest Irish single malt ever bottled.
Although claiming bragging rights as the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery, that production has not been continuous since the early 17th century. As previously touched upon, a disastrous fire razed the distillery in 1885—and then once rebuilt World War II shuttered the doors once again. Still, the heritage at Bushmills runs deep—which makes the experimentation in their latest ultra-premium Irish single malt noteworthy.
“The 26 Year Old Crystal Malt is a perfect example of this innovation,” posits the esteemed Bushmills Master Blender. “Instead of relying solely on maturation or cask finishes to influence flavor, we impacted the process at the malting stage by crystallizing the sugars before the liquid ever touches oak. This allows us to preserve the unmistakable character of Bushmills while introducing a new dimension of depth.
“The process involves an additional stage during malting, where the natural sugars in the barley are crystallized during kilning,” Thomas explains of their proprietary process—one rarely used in the world of whiskey-making. “By carefully controlling temperature and timing, we are able to lock in those sugars, resulting in a malt that brings forward intense flavor at the pre-distillation stage.”
Thomas describes how the crystallization process creates an “unmistakable signature flavor,” the triple-distilled raw white dog coming out of the still already boasting a commanding depth of caramel and creamy chocolate before any oak influence whatsoever. So what happens then when this unique whiskey sits for more than a quarter-century in first-fill bourbon barrels sourced from Kentucky’s Kelvin Cooperage?
“These notes evolve into a velvety texture with layered vanilla sweetness, malt richness, and subtle spice,” Thomas reveals. “The finish is long, warming, and elegantly balanced. Visually, the whiskey is surprisingly golden-hued and lighter than typical whiskies of its age, but it delivers astonishing depth.”
Subtle elements of caramel, roasted barley, and chocolate malt found in traditional Bushmills are dialed up to 11 in the Bushmills Crystal Malt, while the long 26-year slumber in American oak softens the cacao punch into more of a deep tissue massage of toasted nuttiness. While its price tag of $1,000 for the bottle is steep, Bushmills here offers a truly unique spirit born both of ingenious innovation and ceaseless time.
Follow our Deputy Editor Nicolas Stecher on Instagram at @nickstecher and @boozeoftheday.
