There’s no better time to visit Mexico City. With the “50 Best Bars of North America” released earlier this month, and the capital city’s own Handshake Speakeasy taking the top spot, along with other globally recognized gin joints like Licorería Limantour, Hanky Panky and Tlecān, itself shooting up the rankings to #3. Clearly Mexico is celebrating a true Renaissance across all culinary branches (in total, Mexico boasted no less than 14 bar entries nationwide). Handshake Speakeasy’s dominance in the Americas should come as little surprise, as just last year it claimed top ranking as the World’s Best Bar, full stop.
These acknowledgments come on the heels of 18 restaurants nabbing Michelin stars in the gastronomic guide’s inaugural run through the Land of the Sun last June —with the capital claiming no fewer than five, and tentpole superstars Pujol and Quintonil grabbing two each. But while those global foodie destinations reside in the uber -wanky Polanco district in Miguel Hidalgo, it is Hidalgo’s neighbor Cuauhtémoc that is currently electrifying the city’s cultural magnet.
While planning a trip to CDMX, the temptation may be to try to hit all the points of interest in one fell swoop — but that is an impossible endeavor. Similar to other world-class travel destinations like Tokyo, Los Angeles, Barcelona, Berlin, Rio de Janeiro, etc. there are simply way too many magnificent sites and experiences to knock out in one trip. So we suggest applying the Keep It Simple, Stupid adage when sketching your itinerary. Focus on one neighborhood, explore its wide boulevards and dens of iniquity like a hungry anthropologist, learn it well, and then save some POIs for your next trip. You’ll want to return.
For your first, or next, toe dip into this glorious megalopolis, we advise planting your flag in the borough of Cuauhtémoc, and delve deep into its pillar neighborhoods of La Condesa, Juárez and Roma. One of the safest and most approachable neighborhoods in CDMX, you can easily walk back and forth from one plaza to the next, and in less than a week acquire a good feel for the borough’s robust offerings. With Cuauhtémoc strategy in mind, we suggest the following can’t-miss hotspots to get a taste for one of North America’s great cities.
WHERE TO STAY: Andaz Mexico City Condesa
The stylishly modern Andaz Mexico City Condesa makes for the ideal jump-off to explore the vibrant La Condesa neighborhood — which along with surrounding fellow Cuauhtémoc hoods Roma and Juarez arguably mark the cultural and nightlife nexus of CDMX. Built as an Art Deco masterpiece in 1960 by famed architect José Luis Benlliure Galán, the Mexico City Heritage Site recently re-opened in January of 2023 after a total renovation and remodeling. Luckily most of the building’s vintage art deco touches were preserved, like the mosaic tiled courtyard and swooping lines, while creating 213 fashionably appointed guest rooms. Its 20 elevated suites include luxuries like private terraces, internal patios and panoramic views of the city’s skyline.
As the art and lifestyle arm of the Hilton Hotel empire, Andaz targets a younger demo by prioritizing different luxuries than other Hilton outlets. For instance the Andaz Condesa is eminently pet-friendly, with its buzzing Wooftop Beer Garden and Canine Club happily catering to all your four-legged friends (there’s even an outdoor agility course). The buzzing open-air dining terrace compliments The Bulldog Sports Bar on the roof of the shorter building, offering typical American pub fare and plenty of action on the screens. Meanwhile once you climb the fuchsia escalator you’ll find the lobby’s Derba Matcha Café, which thanks to Mexico City’s top-rated pastry chef, Oscar Paniagua, offers a superb suite of croissants, flaky treats and coffee.
Atop the 17-story Andaz tower the Cabuya Rooftop specializes in a creative Baja-Yucatan fusion, its leafy Tulum beach interior juxtaposed with 360 degree panoramic views of the megalopolis’ spectacular skyline. Sure CDMX overflows with gastronomic destinations, but don’t miss out trying Cabuya’s aguachile, avocado-soaked pulpo and barbacoa de picaña at least once a visit. However the highlight of this Andaz outpost sits just outside the Cabuya’s terrace doors: the highest open-air swimming pool in the entire city was also recently voted its best. Given CDMX’s torrid afternoon heat much of the year, an afternoon dip with restorative piña colada makes for a bullseye recuperation/recharge before gathering strength for that evening’s adventure.
WHAT TO DO
Farmacia Internacional
Kick off your morning with a wakeup at Farmacia Internacional, a cozy corner café with shaded patio and a pharmacy-like kiosk window opening to the bustling Avenida Leon. Anything you choose on the highly creative menu will delight, such as the accurately named “Egg in a Jar with Bacon” — essentially a mason jar filled with a savory mixture of sautéed mushrooms and gently baked eggs, with fat slices of bacon piercing the white slop like a crispy straw (which you can sub for asparagus spears if you prefer). The chilaquiles are wild too, but Farmacia Internacional’s surefire superstars are their homemade Pop Tarts. You know how nothing today tastes as good as you remember it being as a kid? Think childhood favs like IHOP, a Whopper, classic Coke, etc.? Well this throwback gem, especially blueberry and strawberry options, elevates that beloved childhood snack like French pastry chef baking your own personal Twinkie. Don’t overdo it tho — stomach real estate will be highly valuable on any day touring CDMX, so chose one dish and move on.
Handshake Speakeasy
What Farmacia Internacional is to morning in CDMX, Handshake Speakeasy is to the post-dinner cocktail (or really, anytime cocktail). Not an easy mission to experience, of course, as getting a reservation here grows harder every passing week — but no visit to the up and coming student heavy Colonia Juárez area of CDMX is complete without experiencing Handshake Speakeasy. It’s that critical of a destination. Located discreetly on the ground floor of the NH Hotel, stepping through the unmarked black door of Handshake Speakeasy feels like teleporting in a time machine to a more elegant, refined but still eminently cheeky era where the gin flows like laughter, the soirées run unchecked, and the vibes are Jedi strong. Co-founded in 2021 by Bar Director Eric Van Beek, the dark Art Deco belly of the speakeasy offers a horseshoe of comfy banquets to enjoy your bevy of cocktails, or a small bar where you can sit and marvel watching Van Beek and his team conjure up a spell book of boozy connections.
Oftentimes these bar rankings are purely marketing/pay-to-play exercises. Not Handshake Speakeasy — despite its global acclaim, it may still be underrated. You literally cannot go wrong with any choice that tickles your fancy — the Once Upon a Time In Oaxaca being the most dramatic, what with its combustible tumbleweed of steel wool the server ignites upon your drink’s arrival. Another personal favorite was the aptly named Fig Martini, made with Bombay Sapphire, fig leaf distillate and dry vermouth. But the Mexi-Thai is without question the most creative, most delicious cocktail we drank last year and it’s not particularly close. Utilizing coconut oil-washed Maestro Dobel tequila, clarified tomato cordial, and makrut lime leaf distillate, the aptly named potion tastes like sipping a chilled tom yum koong soup—all at once smoky, spicy, and bracingly refreshing. Seatings are maxed at 90 minutes, so enjoy every single one.
Tacos Hola El Güero
Don Gus’ cherished Tacos Hola El Güero has been a Condesa staple since 1968, dutifully serving traditional guisado style tacos to the neighborhood faithful all day, every day. Walking into the taquería you are greeted with a dense wall of spiced meat aromas, the shop little more than a humble closet lined with small tables and red plastic chairs on Calle Amsterdam. The slow-cooked style of tacos offers a potpourri of cooked meats, brazed offals and roasted veggies fit for an Aztec god. Specialties like Hígado Encebollado (sautéed Liver with onions); Chorizo con Papa (spicy sausage and potato mix); Tinga de Pollo (smoky chipotle soaked shredded chicken); Rellena (haggis) and Picadillo: (expertly seasoned ground beef and potato mash) and a tuna/sardine stew await. Happily, vegetarians are not shunned here like so many other taquerías — non-meat eaters can rejoice with the Calabacitas (onions and spice soaked Zucchini); Tortas de Cauliflower, Chile Relleno (cheese-stuffed chilis) braised Nopales and milkweed.
El Güero’s system is as simple as it is ingenious: a series of laminated posters line the walls, filled with a grid of photos corresponding to their various stews sizzling in brown clay plots. As the day progresses and options are consumed, they simply ‘X’ off that photo with a Sharpie on the laminate. You snooze, you lose compadre. In the late afternoon, however, the small team of cooks refills their top options, so a well timed 3-4 pm afternoon strike can reward the intrepid foodie with an entirely refreshed selection of delicious stewy offerings. Slop on a variety of salsas, assorted pickled veggies, bright orange habanero slices, cilantro, and hot sauces and you’re all fueled up for another couple hours of adventure. While little more than a neighborhood favorite for their first half-century of existence, Tacos Hola El Güero recently made waves by earning recognition from the Michelin Guide — meaning locals now have to make elbow room for the gastronomically curious traveler.
El Ayer
Just like most major urban hubs, CDMX offers no shortage of boozy revelry. But libertine seekers of frolic will quickly realize that Mexico’s capital loses no edge to global party hotspots like Berlin, Barcelona, Medellin, etc. At the moment one of the trendiest locales in the city is El Ayer (i.e. ‘The Yesterday’), a nightclub established to celebrate the best music, and memories, of your youth — or perhaps, your parents’ youth. Everything from ‘80s and ‘90s culture rolls out in a hectic, always fun sonic tapestry that keeps pretty much everyone dancing all night long, whether that’s dancing with yourself or you wanna dance with somebody. In some rooms of the historic La Roma mansion the bar is the focus, others the dancefloor, but taken in entirety El Ayer is a nonstop irreverent celebration of nostalgia — the vibe decidedly more a stylish Mexican house party than a nightclub in the banging techno sense (if you want the latter, there are plenty of stellar options). Before going, however, be aware: the line to enter is not an obstacle meant for the weak of heart. See if you can get your concierge to help with entry and do the heavy lifting, otherwise you might be in for a long night.
HONORABLE MENTIONS
Tortas Al Fuego
This is where you come if you’re fiending specifically for al pastor tacos. Introduced by early Lebanese settlers in the 1800s, initially dubbed ‘tacos Arabes,’ the al pastor meat cooks all day on rotating vertical spits — much like how they roast their shawarmas. Tortas Al Fuego slices their in-house prepared meat thin and crisp, and piles it high with pineapple and their special salsa. Even if you’re not hungry, make your way by Tortas Al Fuego just off Avenida Insurgentes Sur for a couple street tacos, its a small indulgence you won’t regret.
Sonámbulo Café
As with most gastronomy branches, Mexico’s coffee game is totally on point. You almost can’t go wrong with any independent coffee house, but Sonámbulo Café offers an indisputable spectrum of options, from frothy cappuccinos to impossibly complex, rich coffee concoctions and sustainably sourced teas from across the globe. Clean, friendly, and fast.
Yes Mexico’s most famous churro maestros’ original location first opened up in 1935 on Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas in the nearby historic district, but there’s also a worthy outpost in Condesa. Conveniently open 24 hours means you can satisfy your El Moro cravings at any time: as breakfast, afternoon snack, or even late night ambling back to the hotel. You want to time your visit so the redolent strips of dough come piping hot out of the Fryolator, perfectly chewy on the inside with its crispy shell slathered in in sugar and cinnamon — and ready for the chocolate dipping sauce.
Follow Deputy Editor Nicolas Stecher on Instagram at @nickstecher and @boozeoftheday.
