Champagne is typically made from three grapes: Chardonnay (a white grape), Pinot Noir (a red grape), and Pinot Meunier (a red grape, usually a blending tool). Amidst a sea of Chardonnay-dominant Champagne, the iconic house of Champagne Bollinger has chosen the bold path of betting on Pinot Noir.
As Champagne Bollinger continues into the future, it’s furthering its emphasis on the red grape with its PN series, an experimental 100% Pinot Noir cuvée. It’s a master class on Pinot Noir—a love letter, an ode to the heartbreak grape and single-varietal Champagne. The 5th edition of PN VZ19, which was just launched, shows off how jovial and elegant Pinot Noir can be. It’s a focused expression of the Verzenay (in the Marne area of Champagne).
It’s technically a non-vintage wine, meaning its pulled from the best of the past few years. Half the fruit is from the 2019 vintage, which was balanced, pure and compelling. The rest is pulled from Bollinger’s deep cellars, including wines dating back 15 years to amplify complexity and elegance. It’s tense and structured, but softened with a thread of salinity and a squeeze of citrus notes. It’s complex and thoughtful enough to sip it on its own, but it shines brightest beside grilled seafood. $186
Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.
